Writer Andrea Tode takes us to the Peruvian coast, a region best known for its eclectic dances, unique costumes and cultural fusion.

Peru is the only country in the world with a coast, highlands, and jungle, so it is no wonder that its music and traditional dances are incredibly diverse. I had the chance to speak with Marilu Dias, who studied numerous traditional dances before settling abroad. Like me, Dias grew up on the coast and is, therefore, most familiar with coastal dances. These are some of the answers she gave me when I asked about her experience.  

The Tondero Dance

“I have learned the tondero, which is northern. The tondero is almost like the marinera, but not as elegant as, say, the marinera from Trujillo, which is super elegant and has much more beautiful garments. The tondero is danced with a small skirt.” Marilu Dias explained to me.

I agreed. The marinera is my favourite Peruvian dance, and as a child it captivated me with its skirts, footwork and the enthralling seduction between the dancers. The tondero is also about seduction, but it portrays a man courting a woman, often chasing after her, insistent in his advances. 

Afro-Peruvian Dances 

“After, I learned the chinchano in the style of ‘toro mata’, a subsection of Afro-Peruvian music. This is a completely different type of dance, and it generally stemmed from Afro-Peruvians who found ways of making music with oxen’ jaws or that of donkeys. Those are the two main folkloric dancing styles I learned. I was eight or nine when I began.”

“Then, there is the hauyno, which I learned from a teacher when I was twelve and a bit more of a teenager, but I only learned a little bit, just a bit! The huayno is danced, mostly in Ayacucho, Cusco… In the highlands. So, I learned three types: I learned northern dancing—  which is danced on the coast, but mostly in the north of it—; I learned coastal dancing— Afro-Peruvian, which is from Ica—; and then I learned the huayno, which is from the highlands.”

An interview with expert Marilu Dias

Andrea: Where did you learn to dance?

“At school. I was in elementary school when I learned tondero and Afro-Peruvian music, and then I learned hauyno in secondary school.”

Andrea: Would you say you come from a family of dancers, or were you the first to be in classes?

“My family are not dancers, but they all enjoy dancing nonetheless. In my classes, I learned to care for and love folkloric dancing.”

Andrea: Do you have a favorite memory from your time as a dancer?

“Yes! When I was in school, back in elementary, we would have dancing competitions with other schools. I enjoyed it! I liked seeing others dance.”

Andrea: You eventually settled abroad. Where did you enjoy Peruvian music/dance?

“Well, I surrounded myself with other Peruvians. There were people from the north or Cusco, and they’d dance, so I would join them whenever I felt like it.”

Andrea: What is, in your opinion, the most beautiful part about Peruvian dance?

“I think it’s its originality and how Peruvians find every resource to express feelings, emotions, joys, sorrows, longing… I think all of it is very well expressed in Peruvian dances, in all of them.”

Andrea: Out of all the songs you learned the choreography of, do you have a favorite?

“Yes! Afro-Peruvian music. I like the rhythm; I like the tone; I like how it moves; I like the choreographies; I like the emotion put into Afro-Peruvian music. For me, it’s wonderful. And, you know, a while ago, I heard in a documentary that the Spanish cajón, which is always used in flamenco, was brought from Peru. And it’s true! Apparently, at some point, a visiting Spaniard loved the sound of the cajón in Peruvian music— tondero, maybe— and brought it to Spain, to Andalucia.” 

Personally, I love the huayno’s cheerful tunes and have learned to sing and play a few on the piano. My favorite song is “Valicha,” a song in Quechua—an Indigenous Peruvian language—which I learned in school at around six years old and have kept as a comfort song ever since. 

As a lover of music and, most importantly, my culture and country, I cannot recommend certain songs enough. “Quisiera Quererte” by Los Caminantes and Nada Soy” by “Los Kipus” are exactly what you need after a breakup,  

“El Condor Pasa” is, of course, a staple of Peruvian music, but “La Flor de la Canela” is a classic, especially from my province of Lima. If I am ever homesick in my new home in the UK, you will often find me humming that or a butchered version of “Valicha”. 

What Can Visitors Take Away From This?

Every tourist looking to explore Cusco or the Amazon Rainforest will have to stop in the capital city of Lima. I, as a local, have a hidden gem to recommend if a traveller has a weekend to spend there before their next adventure and wants to experience Peruvian music: The most accessible option, regardless of the time of year— and my personal favourite—, is the ‘Dancing Saturdays’ at Kennedy Park in the district of Miraflores. These events are precisely what they sound like: Every Saturday, from 3:30 p.m. until 9 p.m., locals gather at this park to dance and play music. It is a great way to build community, make friends, and, as a tourist, enjoy a free show that you’ll be welcome to join. 

Photo Credits: Featured Image/Photo 1 (Andrea Tode), Photo 2: Ian Riley/Flickr, Photo 3: Bruno Girin/Flickr