In this deep dive article, Tyla Fergusson-Platt, gives a personal guide to climbing Indonesia’s most deadly Volcano, Mount Merapi.

In 2016 when I climbed Mount Merapi I wasn’t really aware of the dangers of traversing the 3000m high volcano. When my friend Laura told me we were going to climb it, it didn’t sound like a big deal. She showed me the brochure for the hike. In big black capital letters it said ‘SUITABLE FOR FAMILIES’.

It reassured me enough to not worry too much. The 3AM wake up call concerned me though. However, Laura convinced me we should do it, telling how much of a life changing experience it would be. I agreed.

The Journey to Mount Merapi Begins at 3am

The next morning in pitch black my phone alarm illuminated the room. Laura was already awake. I got down from the bunk bed and she said ‘Tyla I’m really sorry but I’m not feeling up for it anymore, you know its the most active volcano in Indonesia?’. This small detail was left off the brochure.

Luckily I didn’t check online before I climbed it or I would have found articles of hikers who died on the hike following unexpected eruptions. Weirdly I had a new sense of vigour and energy for the volcano and suddenly it was an exciting challenge to overcome. However I was beginning to question the brochures insistence that it was suitable for families.

We made the first leg of our journey (minus Laura) from our hostel to the volcano, in a rickety minibus. It was a quiet and sombre mood inside. Clearly everyone else had read the leaflet thinking it would be a casual walk, as people rocked up in Hawaiian shirts and flip-flops. They looked more ready for the beach than a volcano.

I had maybe taken the casual a little too far, even for a family walk. Dressed in a suit jacket, skinny jeans and tennis shoes, I looked like some old British colonialist discovering the new world. Back then I thought it would be funny to climb it dressed like that, but the laughter soon stopped 4 hours later when I was on my hands and knees near the peak of the summit.

The Long Steep Climb to the Summit

It took us about an hour to get there. We arrived at the base with the ominously steep outline of the volcano rising above us. We were given head torches and not much else. Even the guides were wearing flip-flops, surely it wouldn’t be too difficult?

We started the rapid ascent and from that point I knew this wasn’t suitable for families. The gradient of the climb was immediately steep, there was no easing into the hike. Quite quickly some of the group lagged behind the rest. The further we travelled, a steady stream of people in groups ahead of us turned back. The tourist company had obviously oversold it to people, knowing that they would get less ticket sales if people knew the reality.

Halfway up and I was struggling. Our group had already gone from 12 to 5, with some heading back. At this point not only had the hike not eased, but it had actually gotten stepper. Now you had to use your hands to make any traction. I tried to concentrate on my breathing with deep diaphragmic inhales and exhales. It seemed to work but the slopes of the volcano would keep slowly turning up the heat.

Unexpected Rock Climbing at the summit

The last stretch was when it became scary. With the peak in sight, we had in between us a 100m rock climb. The guides were unfazed, still in their flip-flops they traversed it with ease. It was a sheer flat climb and to be honest it is unbelievable that it wasn’t mentioned beforehand. I couldn’t stop now, I had to get to the top and see the crater. Eventually, very slowly we got over the impasse. Surely now this must be it?

And then, the hardest part of the trip. Black, smooth gravel like material that surrounded the peak. You take two steps and end up going back a step. The only way was to scramble it on your hands and knees. Mount Merapi had finally brought me to my knees. It felt like the scene in the Lord of the Rings, where Frodo and Sam exhausted at the end of their journey, scramble to the entrance of Mount Doom.

The ecstasy of making it to the top for sunrise

Finally we made it. After 3 hours of arduous work we could see across the vast heavenly landscape. The sun peeked from the horizon and sent out rays of light all around. It was a surreal moment. Dazed and confused it took a while to let it all sink in.

Perhaps the greatest feeling other than the sense of achievement of making it to the top is probably looking over the expanse of the volcano crater. There is something deeply disturbing about it. The almost inaudible rumbling below your feet of something devastating. The misty smoke that exudes from the crater top signals of something dangerous beneath.

Amazingly it is warm at the peak. The ascent had been quite cold and it was refreshing to bask in the heat of the lava. There is truly nothing like it. The views are unique and out of this world. We had hot coffee on a rock near the crater of Mount Merapi, and spent a while admiring the views and thinking about the journey we had just taken.

Mount Merapi – A life-changing experience

The descent down was surprisingly difficult but much easier than the way up. You see just how long the steep gradient goes on for. All round it is a 6 hour trip up and down, and it is far more difficult than the tour guides made out before the journey.

If you are unfit or just not looking for a strenuous activity on your holiday in Indonesia then Mount Merapi isn’t for you. You should be prepared to push yourself, at times even rock climbing and at the end scrambling on your hands and knees.

As recently as December last year Mount Merapi erupted while hikers were attempting to reach the summit. 22 people died while trying to escape the blast. There is always the risk when participating in extreme climbs that something bad can happen. Although it is Indonesia’s most active volcano the chances of eruption are historically slim.

On balance I would say it is worth it. Of all the trips I have been on, standing on top of Mount Merapi always springs to mind when someone asks about my favourite trips. In terms of unique travel it doesn’t get much better than this. Standing on any high mountain is always an awe inspiring experience but having a rumbling potentially deadly volcano under your feet is truly thrilling.

The guides amazingly hike up mount Merapi every day and some of them really do wear flip-flops. They were helpful from start to finish, always fascinated by the different cultures of the people in the group. If you want to do something a little different on your trip to Indonesia then you should definitely look at booking a expedition to Mount Merapi.

Its a life changing experience that will live with you forever, and create memories that you will never forget. You can usually book the trip through your hostel or hotel, with the owners more than happy to help organise it for you.