Tyla Fergusson-Platt, takes a glimpse into Marrakech’s modern quarter, Gueliz. A vibrant and forward looking district in the city, that is championing the countries home-grown artists.

On the 8th September 2023, just after 11PM, tragedy struck Marrakech. The great old medina, that contains one of the largest souks in Morocco, shook, in some cases to its knees. Almost 3000 people lost their lives that day and parts of the city were heavily damaged. The damage can still be seen today, but in Marrakech life continues. Through the ruins, there are shoots of renewal and evolution. This is never truer than in Gueliz, where the burgeoning art scene is taking the metropolis to another level.

Gueliz, is home to some of the most exciting artists in the country, that are breaking traditional barriers through their artwork. The area is typically referred to as the French Quarter, as this is where French expatriates historically chose to settle. It houses a number of impressive art deco buildings, with examples from famous architects like Henry Prost. It is most commonly known for its boujee modern restaurants and shopping attractions, but its art scene goes under the radar.

Where to find Marrakesh’s Art scene

In a sleepy cul-de-sac off Rue Yugoslavie, lies Passage Ghandouri, a rich hidden gem housing some of the best art galleries in Marrakech. The passage is adorned with street art and eclectic colour schemes, brimming with modernity. One gallery in particular is carrying the torch for revolutionary new art and is smashing the ceiling on what is possible.

Yahya Gallery is unique amongst the galleries of Passage Ghandouri. It is off the radar in most guidebooks but it has an impressive collection of artwork that has reached international acclaim. Yahya’s work has reached worldwide international acclaim, with one infamous piece even being covered on US talk shows. Like most people who enter this gallery, I was unaware of the in depth free guided tour I was about to receive.

Yayha Gallery and the Wu-Tang Clan Connection

Yayha seated in front of his gallery

It was actually Yayha’s son who showed me around. His pride and enthusiasm shone through, as he explained to me in detail about his fathers work. Yayha designs and creates intricate metalwork in the traditional Moroccan style, but with a twist. The artist, along with a multitude of other artisans, creates the works using one continuous piece of metal. It is unlike the lamps you’ll find in the Souk, which will use multiple sheets of metal soldered together to make one lamp.

Part of the guided tour includes an interactive video which shows the extreme minute detail required to make each item. The tour is peppered with unique stories about the artists dealings with celebrities and rich billionaires from the Middle East. Perhaps the most interesting story though is that of the Wu-tang Clan album, Once Upon a Time in Shaolin (2015).

In 2015, the US rap group The Wu-Tang Clan decided to make an album like no other. In a world where music is becoming increasingly transient and devalued, the band chose to release just one copy of their new release. It was to be an artwork that brought back music’s value. The band recorded the album in Marrakech and they asked Yayha if he would design and create the metalwork encasing that housed the record. The story doesn’t stop here however.

Yayha Gallery

Yayha, Bill Murray and Tom Cruise

At this point I could have gone home thoroughly impressed, but the story continued and got ever more bizarre. Yayha’s son excitedly told me ‘wait, wait I must show you a YouTube video about the album! Honestly its crazy you’ll never believe it.’ He then showed me US Late Night TV show clips all about the album. The video told of how the album was bought by a Silicon Valley entrepreneur Martin Shkreli in 2015 for $2 million at auction.

However, three years later the US government convicted him of fraud in 2018 and took possession of the album. It was reported that within the contract for the purchase of the album, there included a stipulation that the members of the Wu-Tang Clan or Bill Murray are allowed one attempt at stealing the album back in a heist. Yayha’s son was particularly keen to point out the Bill Murray part of the story. It received its first ever public exhibition in Tasmania this year, with guests teased 30 minutes of the record.

Hollywood stars clearly seek out Yayha’s work, and one of the most famous is among that crowd of admirers. Tom Cruise during a break in filming of Mission Impossible, visited the gallery and posed for pictures with staff. Yayha’s son told me how the director of the film spent $100,000’s to rent one piece of Yayha’s art for a single scene, but changed his mind during editing as he felt that it drew too much attention away from Tom Cruise.

The Wu-Tang Clan Album ‘Once Upon a Time in Shaolin’.

Meeting Yayha

The gallery is surprisingly off most to-do lists of Gueliz and Marrakech, but for me it was one of the most interesting and unique aspects of my trip to the city. The Yayha gallery offers the personal touch and gives you an insight into the world of a renowned international artist. I left the gallery and stood outside to take a picture of the shops frontage. As I took the picture Yayha’s son rushed out to speak to me. ‘I forgot to tell you, my father is here!’.

Yayha’s son leaving the gallery

I realised that the man who had been sitting on the chair in front of me was in fact Yayha. After I had heard all the colourful stories of his career, I was a little taken aback at actually meeting him face to face. I shook his hand and excitedly told him how interesting the Wu-Tang Clan album artwork was. Afterwards I realised this is probably what everyone says to him.

The Art Deco St Martyrs Church

St Martyrs Church is another hidden gem in Gueliz. Even locals I spoke to seemed unaware of its existence. It is a symbol of Morocco’s famous religious tolerance, located adjacent to the grand Mosque of Gueliz. The Church is often overlooked by tourists, located on a quiet side street in the centre of Gueliz. It is well worth a visit though. The place of worship has a unique blend of French and Moorish design that gives a memorable first impression.

Entering the building you are met with a kaleidoscope of bright colour, emanating from the altar on the far side of the room. The deep blues and yellows gives a sense of place to the culture it finds itself in, marrying itself to the religious imagery which gives a link to the institutions past. The ambience it generates is a sense of calm but also a feeling of energy, with the beating sun shining through the orange glazed windows.

St Martyrs Church was the first Christian establishment in Marrakech. Built in 1932, it paved the way for the beginnings of the newly formed French quarter of the city. It is one of the oldest buildings in the new town and along with Le Grand Cafe de la Poste, it acts like a marker point to the areas foundations.

It is free to enter St Martyrs Church and is open weekdays until 7pm. Due to its central location it is easy to get too and near enough to other attractions. I’m not Christian myself but I think if I lived in Gueliz I would be a regular attendee, for the ambience if nothing else.

St Martyrs Church, Gueliz

Le Grand Cafe de la Poste

Le Grand Café de la Poste is a breezy, cool jazz infused establishment that originates from the French colonial era. Unlike other boujee hangouts in Marrakech, this café has substance and a deep colourful past. It is not merely chic for chic’s sake. It was restored to its former glory by studio KO, the same company who designed the Yves Saint Lauren museum (also in Gueliz).  The Café hosts weekly live music which consists of local Moroccan musicians. On weekdays the jazz atmosphere continues with a soundtrack that wouldn’t look out of place in Ricks café in Casablanca.

As a budget traveller, I rarely step into the havens of Instagram influencers with expensive, extensive food menus. However here it is different. It is as much an historical pilgrimage, a moment frozen in time than just a place to eat. The décor is how I would imagine it to look all the way back in the 1920’s and the clientele perhaps similar to the days of the French protectorate.  For a moment I can pretend that I’m one of the rich, blend in to this other world that I’m unaccustomed too. I order a mint tea and enjoy the surroundings.

Le Grand Cafe de la Poste