Kristine De Abreu takes us on a historical tour of Scotland’s capital. The city, sometimes referred to as the ‘Athens of the North’, has a rich wealth of historical sites that are a must-see for any visitor.

I battled the harsh Arctic winds a little too long trying to understand the National Monument of Scotland before me. You would think that a war memorial, commemorating the Scottish blood shed during the Napoleonic Wars, would be more…Scottish? A statue of a bearded soldier with tartan sash? Bagpipes and a kilt, maybe? In 1826, its construction began and never ended, a few pillars and then a gaping hole at the back. 

As you make your way up Calton Hill to catch the sunset, you’ll realise something odd about Edinburgh’s skyline, though beautiful it may be. Replete with hundreds of cranes and construction signalling new infrastructure to come, Georgian or Victorian buildings alongside glass modern architecture, a medieval castle perched proudly atop a hill in the distance and this proudly unfinished Greek parthenon. I asked myself, ‘can a city go through an identity crisis?’ Apparently, it can. And that’s what gives it its unique charm.

Calton Hill – A Portal to the Ancient World 

Edinburgh is high on the list of the most picturesque cities in the world because of this beautiful inconsistency that came from centuries of shifts in its identity. Its architects, Thomas Hamilton and William Henry Playfair, were undeniable Grecophiles who wished to breathe life, art and culture from the ancient world into Scotland. With their genius, Edinburgh is still hailed as the ‘Athens of the North’, with bits and pieces of this stunning architectural revival scattered about the city.

Calton Hill which is home to the City Observatory, National Monument and the Dugald Stewart Monument, are the main tributes to the achievements of Ancient Greek civilisation and even the Roman Empire. Much like the Acropolis in Athens which contains several structures for various purposes, Hamilton and Playfair did their best to mimic it on this bare volcanic outcrop. The National Monument boasts 12 Doric-style columns, the Dugald Stewart has nine more ornate Corinthian columns and the City Observatory is a replica of a Greek temple. 

St Bernard’s Well

What many thought to be uncharacteristic of Scottish culture was revering the ancient city as a prime example of civilisation to which they should aspire after centuries of British rule. As you walk about the city streets, Greco-Roman architecture is undeniable in local government buildings, galleries, banks and even schools. Hamilton and Playfair Designers created a vast network of structures throughout Edinburgh so locals and visitors could go on a daily pilgrimage through the ancient world. 

Further north towards Leith is St Bernard’s Well, an otherworldly 18th-century shrine to Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health, which sits on the supposedly healing river called the Water of Leith. Follow the river, and the shrine sits hidden among a sea of green, where the trees are blanketed in draping moss. The sounds of the city are drowned out by the gently rushing water, which would heal just about anyone looking for solace. Seeing as Scottish and British life can seem dreary at times, this is a needed revitalisation for some. Don’t be surprised to find the nearby benches occupied. 

Edinburgh Castle – A Medieval Side to ‘Auld Reekie’

Though the Greek revival took place in the 19th century, Edinburgh’s older, medieval past shines brightly even though the dark, blackened stonework of its cathedrals, castles and graveyards permeating the city’s iconic Old Town. We start at the very top of the Royal Mile. Edinburgh Castle sits on the dormant volcanic Castle Rock, looming protectively over the city.

The castle has been a constant in the lives of the Scots since the 11th century with the reign of Malcolm III. During the Scottish War of Independence, the castle saw its fair share of trial and grief when the English took control of it several times. The intimidating fortress is one of Scotland’s most treasured symbols, the country’s vivid military past celebrated every year with the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. To this day, it has an air of resilience, standing strong and preserved after devastating sieges. 

St. Giles Cathedral – The most impressive Cathedral in Scotland

Continue down the Mile, and you will be smacked in the face by one of the most impressive cathedrals in all of Scotland. St. Giles Cathedral, founded in the 12th century, was constructed under the order of King David I of Scotland. It has a foreboding presence in the middle of the Mile, which forces you to stop and look or even go inside. The building is a unique mix of Romanesque, French Medieval and Gothic.

It has a striking exterior with stonework blackened on the outside, pointed arches, flying buttresses, and a distinctive crown steeple that can be seen from most points in the city. Inside, there are seven chapels are each adorned with stunning stain-glass displays of saints and biblical scenes. Features of the original 12th-century church are hiding in plain sight throughout the walls. Challenge yourself and try to find them.

At the end of the Mile is Holyrood Palace, an official residence of the British Royal Family. It was originally the site of Holyrood Abbey, which lies in stunning ruins on the same compound. Founded in 1128, the ruins are in better condition than most medieval buildings of that time. The abbey saw many royal figures pass under its glorious arches, from King David I of Scotland and Rober the Bruce to Margaret Tudor (sister of Henry VIII) and James IV. The palace itself was built alongside the ruins in the 16th century and served as an official residence of the British monarchy.

New Town – The inspiration for Harry Potter

Just off the Royal Mile is a pleasant and more modern surprise. The black sandstone buildings of the city are overlooked when you run into the unexpected flamboyance of the Flemish styled Victoria Street. As Edinburgh is in no way a city of uniformity, a dash of Dutch has added a kind of charm that is difficult to replicate. Tightly packed and multicoloured, the businesses of Victoria Street have inspired residents and visitors to think outside the box.

Most notably, authors like JK Rowling have found Victoria Street’s quirkiness and magical personality so palpable that it had to make an appearance as Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter novels. Here, you’ll find a few Harry Potter-themed shops, a famous broom repair (now antique) store, a vintage store and a famous fish and chips joint.

Architects and designers saw the underdeveloped districts of New Town as an opportunity to modernise and turn Britain’s forgotten treasure into a valuable asset in the 1800s. The New Town became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, being an incredible feat in engineering and city planning. New Town is a conglomerate of Georgian buildings from Princes Street to Calton Hill and has become the centre of shopping, commerce, art, music, dance and international cuisine. 

A good identity crisis

I see where this city is coming from. When you’ve been fought over for so long by foreign powers, still called a part of Britain today, it’s not a surprise when a capital such as this chooses to do things its own way. It chooses to embrace its history and changing landscape in the most tangible way possible. Not many places can do that.