Discovering the World’s Oldest Jewish Ghetto in Venice

by | Jul 27, 2024 | Europe, Italy

The number of Jewish Ghettos around the world has grown in size in the last few hundred years. Of course, the Jewish religion itself originated in Israel. However, I was surprised to learn that the first ghetto in existence was not formed in this country. It turns out that the first Jewish Ghetto was created in Italy’s collection of floating islands in Venice.

With its enriching history, this Venetian area is located on the northern side of these floating islands. It is a simple case of getting there by boat, train, or bus and then taking a stroll through the back alleys. You will then find yourself in the heart of the earliest Jewish Ghetto.

Upon arrival at Ghetto Vecchio, this alley Is the gateway to the area that was formerly occupied by thousands of Jews around 500 years ago. To this day, it is easy enough to see the remnants of this ghetto, as well as the very few shops, bakeries, and restaurants that are still in business. Gam Gam is an example of a restaurant you will walk past as you approach daylight again. The famous Antichità Al Ghetto is also located on the left and houses historical antiques on offer in this area of Venice.

The Heart of The Ghetto

After briefly admiring the beauty of these synagogues, you can continue along the Strada to approach what may be the beating heart of this former Ghetto. You will find a minute art studio called ‘The Studio of Venice’ to your left. It displays some of the best paintings this former ghetto has to offer, both of the ghetto itself and other abstract paintings of local artists.

Once again, on your left, a school comes into view, which is still in operation for kindergarten-age children. A restaurant is located next to this school, which is called ‘Ristorante Pizzería Al Faro.’ This is useful for the parents of these children who want to stop by for a coffee after dropping their kids off; they may also wish to visit at lunchtime for a pizza or pasta dish in a very relaxing environment.

A glassware shop is then located on the right, along with one of many holiday flats rentable for those wishing to stay the night here. A bridge (or Ponte in Italian) is then approached, where on the other side of this is the Campo Di Ghetto Nuevo. This is also where the remaining other synagogues of this Venetian area can be found, which are the Italian and German Synagogues. Also on this square are three former banks dedicated to three separate colours: One for red (Rosso), one for green (Verde), and another for black (Nero).

Embarking on a Walking Tour

Those wishing to take a walking tour of this former Ghetto can do so. The tour begins in Campo Di Ghetto Nuevo, just outside the ‘Ba Ghetto Ristorante Kosher’ restaurant. The tour guide provides a walkie-talkie with an earpiece for all participants if they stray from the group.

The tour begins with a history lesson about the former Ghetto, which dates back 500 years. This marked the very beginning of this Venetian area becoming highly populated with civilians of the Jewish religion. One of the key historical figures covered in this tour is Napoleon Bonaparte, who expanded on the freedom that Jews living in this area had by tearing down the gates of this former Ghetto.

The walking part of the tour begins as the tour guide escorts all participants towards the historic banks previously in operation. Bankers, as the tour guide confirms, were one of the few major occupations held by working Venetian Jews in this former Ghetto, doctors and librarians being two others.

The Changing Face of the Ghetto

The tour then continues towards the Ponte De Ghetto, where the guide leads others across this bridge to the former Ghetto’s centre. The tour guide then covers a brief history of the school and how this area of Venice has developed over time. The shocking number of Jews living in this area today from 500 years ago is revealed, which turns out to be only six Jews.

The walk then continues to the Spanish and Levantine Synagogues, where it is revealed that a further ticket can be purchased to access the Spanish Synagogue. Plaques are located on the Levantine Synagogue, commemorating those living in this area of Venice who lost their lives during the Second World War.

Retracing our steps, the tour guide leads tourists to the Calle Del Forno alleyway. This is where we learn the story of six Jews who were assassinated in the Auschwitz concentration camp. While this may be a somewhat dark story, the significance of this history and its relevance to the tour is very strong.

Strolling back towards Campo Di Ghetto Nuevo, other plaques are located on particular building walls dedicated to historical Italians, including the author Adolfo Ottolenghi. Arriving back in Campo Di Ghetto Nuevo signals the end of the tour, where a one-hour synagogue tour is available to those wishing to explore the Spanish Synagogue further.

The price of this two-hour walking tour starts from around £36.50 (€43), and this does not include the extra hour of exploring the Spanish Synagogue.

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