Lisbon is a city of tradition with modernity. This is told no better than through its street art, with the community of street artists painting stories of the city’s social, political past and present. 

“Street art has always been part of the city’s identity and way of life” Joao, a Lisbon local and tour guide explains, as I sign up for the street art tour of the day. Joao studied communication design at university, and his passion for street art is felt in his words. “Telling stories through design, about social status, politics, religion… Contemporary street artists continue those traditions today.”

Street art holds a particular historical significance in Lisbon. The revolution in 1974, known as ‘Carnation Revolution’, saw a 48 year long dictatorship overturned by military officers and a popular civil movement. Thousands of citizens took to the streets to celebrate the end of the dictatorship, placing carnations on soldiers’ uniforms and inside their guns. Political murals began exploding across the city after this. Fast forward to now, Lisbon City Council now commissions street art pieces across the city – a true display of street art being deeply ingrained in the culture, and the city’s pride in it.

Each neighbourhood has its own history, its own people and a different story – which affects the kind of street art that gets painted there. The neighbourhood is a part of the pieces, just as the pieces are a part of the neighbourhood.

Fado Music and Lisbon’s Street art

Wandering through the narrow streets of Lisbon, suddenly all that exists is a piece of music trickling out from the distance, of a heartbroken violin and a woman’s yearning voice. Known as Fado music, I follow it like an enticing smell – passing houses in pastel pinks, yellows and blues, trying not to fall over my own feet on the slippery cobbled pavement. The hypnotizingly depressing tune takes me along buildings covered in intricate patterned tiles, held up by grand doors that belong in a 19th century literature book. 

My attention on the Fado music and antique Portuguese streets is cut sharp, as I’m face to face with a vibrantly painted mural on one of the buildings. Something so urban and modern is a shock to the system, from a street embodying tradition so much that it had transported me to a different time altogether. Yet somehow, Lisbon makes it work.

Alfama – Lisbon’s Oldest, Most Authentic Neighbourhood

We begin the street art tour in Alfama – Lisbon’s oldest, most authentic neighbourhood. It is the birthplace of traditional Fado music, which is a mournful, moving piece of music about the sad realities of Portuguese life. Reflected in the street art, down the stairs of Edcadinhas de Sao Cristovao is a mural, paying tribute to the city’s first Fado singer, Severa. 

Bairro Alto – Where to find Lisbon Street art  

Bairro Alto, translated to ‘Upper District’ due to sitting at the top of a hill, takes us a short walk from Alfama. This district has a distinctive blend of tradition with modernity. It is packed now with trendy restaurants, bars and nightclubs, but on a backdrop of its original, Portuguese character.  A notable piece here pays homage to the Carnation Revolution, created by street artists Antonio Alvel and RIGO in 2009. It embodies the essence of Bairro Alto – connecting the modern day public to important historical moments.

We make our way to the next neighbourhood Graca, and along the way spot pieces by Vhills – one of Lisbon’s most prominent street artists. Raised during a period deeply affected by the revolution, he witnessed destruction and the effects of the war on his physical surroundings. 

The Carnation Revolution – Lisbon’s Deep History

Now, Vhills creates his street art by chiselling, carving and drilling into brick walls, to reveal the wall’s layers. His street art is very symbolic – believing that our social system is a product of social and historical layers. That by eliminating some of the top layers, we may be able to accomplish a more pure form. Destruction as a form of construction. 

We walk up the stairs of Carcol da Graca – another vibrant gallery of street art, plastered with all kinds of painted pieces. A piece here that catches my attention is by well known street artist Ozearv. Open to interpretation, it shows an old, Eastern looking man, wearing what could be a soldier’s jacket and hat. It has Ozearv’s signature style of colourful nature and birds weaved into it – maybe another symbol of merging history with growth and renewal.

Both these artists’ concepts take me back again, to the Carnation Revolution. How this event of social transformation and fights for freedom deeply affected not just the society, but also the street artists own personal creative processes.

Graca – Lisbon’s Most Important Area For Street Art

As we continue walking through the city, the atmosphere changes from touristic to one where I can only imagine it must feel as a local. The people around change from scurrying short and sandal wearers, to casual chic in cafes, in clothes more suitable for work and business. Joao somehow becomes more human and less ‘tour guide’ to me, too. 

“Graca” He declares from his heart, “is the most important area for street art in Lisbon”. Joao’s connection to Graca, as well as the sense of ‘soul’ in the air that seems to have carried from the past, has also given me my own affinity to it.

“Founded as a working class neighbourhood, it’s also the neighbourhood of several poets and intellectuals connected to the left. The street art in Graca is deeply connected to the history and life of the neighbourhood. It often talks about the workers struggles but also its most famous residents political and cultural activism”. I understand what Joao means as we pass several hard-hitting pieces.

Shephard Fairey – An Internationally Famous Artist

A piece by Shephard Fairey, internationally famous street artist also known as ‘OBEY’, illustrates a woman holding a gun with a flower in the barrel. A peace symbol inspired by the Vietnam War protests, where protestors put flowers in the barrels of the National Guards guns. He bridges this to the 1974 Carnation Revolution. 

Shepard Fairey has a second piece in the neighbourhood, this time collaborated with street artist Vhils – who carved the other half. The mural features two women from different cultural backgrounds merged into one, symbolising a common humanity. 

“Poetry is the highest form of art in Lisbon” Joao expresses, as we walk along a residential road of familiar pinks, blues and yellows. We gaze up at a similarly coloured mural painted on them. Created by street artist akaCorleone, it is a psychedelic illustration of the 20th century Portuguese poet and literary icon Fernando Pessoa. Fernando Pessoa had a significant connection to the soulful neighbourhood, visiting it frequently and often writing about it in his poetry. 

Walking further along the streets of Graca, there is another face painted on the side of a building. Jaoa explains that this historic Portuguese literature figure and poet Sophie de Mello Breyner is strongly associated with the neighbourhood of Graca. We pass another piece paying tribute to Sophia de Mello Breyner, with her poetic words directly painted onto the wall.

Alcantra – The Thriving Heart of Street Art

The tour ends in Graca. I decide to venture on (without Joao) to experience the industrial area of Alcantara. ‘The LX factory’ used to be an unused factory complex from the 1840’s, but is now a cultural hub. Street art thrives here- there are no walls left unpainted. It’s also filled with co-working spaces for creatives, innovators and entrepreneurs, and brings a variety of different events in fashion, communication, multimedia art and music. I feel inspired just being here. The whole concept is built out of innovation, and is probably the most modern part of Lisbon I’ve experienced.

Lisbon’s street art scene is something different. More than just one off street mural’s by independent artists, the street art scene is a connected community. A living, breathing part of the city, its heritage and future. It reflects a deeper meaning of transformation that the Revolution started and the street art continues. Still, as the city evolves, there remains an ever strong connection to and respect for its roots. Being here inspires my own feelings of creativity and possibility, as Lisbon teaches me that where we come from is important, and can revolutionize who we will become.

Fancy experiencing the tour for yourself? Follow the link to sign up to a Lisbon Street art Tour: Lisbon Street Art Tours – Home

To see more of Chloe’s photos visit – @chloe.jaleh