Kristine De Abreu takes us on a journey to the Canary Islands, to explore the regions unique food offering.

Canarians pride themselves on standing out from their Spanish overlords. Their food is an entirely separate entity, developing its unique voice and flavours which take influence from its volcanic surroundings, diverse agricultural yield and the vast Atlantic beyond its shores. Instead of chasing Michelin stars, addictiveness and shock factor, Canarians stick with a simple recipe of simplicity, comfort, freshness and balance. Their primary target: your soul.

When I came to Tenerife, I had no idea what to expect. Perhaps, I had a simplistic impression that I’d be stuffing my face with endless paella, seafood and Jamon. I expected to be thrown into a new world of Mediterranean and Iberian fusion with influences from North Africa and surrounding European countries.

But one thing I came to understand about Canarian food is that it is not meant to evoke. There are no wows, no oos or ahs you would normally get some sinful, umami creations found in Asia or France. No, you’d get a deep satisfaction and a contentment from the chef’s lack of over complicated flavours and pretentious flair. 

Cafe Con Leche – A light way to start the day

In the over-saturated market of social media epicurean-ism, Instagram food porn, over-consuming food You-tubers and the upscale realm of fine dining, Canarian cuisine has slipped past unnoticed. And quite frankly, they like it that way. As you might have seen in recent news, Canarians are rather protective of their heritage and do not seek to compete with the rest of the world.

Social media portrays the start of a day in Spain with a warm cup of decadent, thick hot chocolate and crispy churros. That is not entirely true. Many, myself included, prefer a lighter breakfast. A simple cafe con leche with small pastry/cookies from La Gomera does the trick.

The cookies are dense, chewy and spice heavy. If you’re a fan of lemon, cinnamon and aniseed, then this is the treat for you. Since La Gomera is so close to Tenerife (easily visible from Los Gigantes in the south), the pastries have become a staple for a Tenerife breakfast or even a light afternoon munchie.

Canarian Tapas – Tasty, Humble Dishes

As the day progresses, tapas start to emerge from the kitchen. Canarian tapas usually starts with fresh bread and almogrote. First of all, tapas are not meant to be elaborate. They are small, humble dishes meant to be tasty but shareable. Take almogrote for example. Almogrote is a cheese spread hailing from La Gomera, the next island over.

Goat cheese is mixed with olive oil, garlic, a variety of peppers and paprika which give it its distinct orange colour. Canarian cheeses are usually a mix of goat and sheep milk and aged in paprika, oil or gofio (Canarian flour). This gives them a smoky flavour and a soft, crumbly texture. 

In my last article, I mentioned the typical Canarian restaurants called guachinches. Though they are holes in the wall, they’re not hard to find. They’re everywhere. They’re rustic, homey and look like an ordinary parlour or bar but laden with old fashioned dining furniture reminiscent of your grandma’s house.

Canarians are quite creative with their guachinches, comfortable with serving home cooked Canarian food from repurposed basements, garages, backyards and various kinds of rooms.

Paella can be found in the Canary Islands – but watch for the prices

The local charm of this setup creates a warm, intimate environment that bridges the gap between local and tourist. Dining at a guachinche, I didn’t feel so foreign and out of place. Everyone was enjoying the same comforts and flavours as I; juicy dry-aged steaks with large roasted peppers, crunchy papas, roasted or fried queso in mojo verde sauce, homemade jamon, queso, vegetable or fish based croquettas, ropa vieja, gambas al ajillo and much more. As a local teacher once told me, “here, everyone eats the same thing. It’s equal.”

I found more mainland Spanish food in the touristy areas such as Puerto de la Cruz and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. So, if you’re looking for your fix of paella, almost every restaurant has it. But, beware. When it comes to iconic Spanish foods like paella or a spread of jamon, the prices can cater to tourists and can therefore be much higher than usual. 

The Venezuelan influence that inspires Canarian Food

Arepa with Bacon, Egg and Avocado

A big part of Canarian cuisine is its Venezuelan influence. Unbeknownst to many, Venezuela and the Canaries have close ties dating back to the days of the Spanish Civil War. Many Canarians fled to South America to avoid the conflict. And when Venezuela fell into crisis, Venezuelans sought refuge in the archipelago.

As a result, Venezuelan cuisine has permeated the scene, with loaded and innovative arepas satisfying everyone’s taste buds as the evening starts to set. Puerto de la Cruz has some of the best Venezuelan spots and is widely popular among beach-goers looking for quick street food to munch on. Check out Delicias Vene Canarias for their unique arepa creations. 

Website: https://www.facebook.com/Venecanarias/
Address: Calle de La Hoya 4 Trasera de la iglesia, Peña la Francia,puerto de la Cruz., 38400 Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife Spain
Phone: +34 922 36 82 25
Instagram: @venecanarias

A Unique Canary Cuisine – Jamon

And of course, food and football go hand in hand in Tenerife, much like the rest of Spain. In my bars and taverns, football scarves, posters, signed shirts and other forms of paraphernalia hang alongside racks of aromatic, succulent jamons.

Usually, football fans treat themselves to thinly sliced jamon with fresh bread, olive oil, olives, avocado and other tapas. If you’re adventurous and not picky, ask the bartender to choose your tapas for you. They know best. In Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Taberna Ramón is the way to go and satisfaction is guaranteed. 

If you’re looking for a place slightly more upscale, La Orotava’s historic and quaint Hotel Rural Victoria is a five star dining experience for an epicelly affordable price, in a traditional Spanish courtyard. One thing that is special about this place is how accommodating the chef is. For breakfast, he will make you anything you like. The staff will bring you tapas, wines, whole charcuterie boards and Canarian specialities to your room should you so desire. 

Website: https://www.hotelruralvictoria.com/
Address:C. Hermano Apolinar, 8, 38300 La Orotava, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain
Phone:+34 922 33 16 83

The Volcanic Canarian Food

The best way to describe Canarian food is earthy. Volcanism runs in their veins and the black lava soil has gifted them the perfect conditions to grow just about anything. Wines in Tenerife are grown on the slopes of El Teide. As a result, the wines produced are completely out of this world.

The nutrient-rich volcanic soil gives the grapes a deep, earthy taste and the proximity to the sea provides the subtlest hint of spice and spritz that nips at your tongue. It does not even need to be aerated. Volcanic wine should be paired with the local Canarian cheeses whose flavours range from smoky to sharp. 

Apart from wine, Tenerife’s second best alcoholic drink which doubles as a dessert is barraquito, a warm coffee liqueur that gives an espresso martini a run for its money. The drink is layered with coffee, condensed milk, liqueur, frothed milk and sometimes cinnamon or lemon peel. This is the perfect cosy drink for the chillier months (November to February). 

The Verdict – A Positive One

It’s safe to say that the verdict is a positive one. Canary gastronomy holds its own well and does not seek to outdo any other type of cuisine. Rather, it chooses to remain true to itself in its own corner of the world. However, if you do get the chance to experience it for yourself, consider yourself lucky to be let in on a special, once in a lifetime secret. 

Plaza de la Constitución in La Orotava was lined with restaurants, dragon trees, shady palms and had probably the most glorious sunset I had ever had the privilege of beholding. Patrons sat outside for a cerveza or vermouth, laughing and smoking with friends until the sun started to descend on the horizon. I did what any awkward outsider would do, order something so I too could participate in the evening splendour.