Tyla Fergusson-Platt goes on the search for the elusive mountain temple, Wat Phu Tok, in the heart of the Isaan countryside.

Sometimes when travelling through Thailand, you can get slightly bloated with temples. The golden hue of the Buddha becoming more commonplace, although impressive, can get tiresome.

Wat Phu Tok though is unique.

Set within the forested area of the Isaan countryside, on top of mars like rock, it feels like you have stumbled across a new world.

Unlike other temples in Thailand, Wat Phu Tok is relatively modern, built in 1968, giving the many statues a more life-like complexion.

So come, discover more about this journey to the top of this alien like rock, climbing seven levels (representing the seven levels of enlightenment in Buddhism) and set on top of the world taking in the vast never sending Isaan landscape.

The first ascent – meeting a monk

Wat Phu Tok is by no means an easy climb. At times the wooden stairwells can be slippy and steep, and even creaky!

One particular stairwell is, I must admit, terrifying, but more on that later!

The humid heat affects how quickly you can climb it, I had to stop a number of times to rest because of it. It’s definitely advisable to bring your own water and food as there is nowhere to eat within the temple once you climb it.

The first ascent takes you directly to the third level. As I approached the entrance to this stage, I was met with a combination of panting, tired, sweaty tourists, who echoed my own thoughts, ‘it’s a damn steep climb!’

Then I experienced one of the most moving moments on the climb. A monk, fully robed, walked past me. I immediately felt a sense of calm from his aura, just by being within his vicinity. It was a mystical moment, when we locked eyes, I understood without him saying anything. His kindly smile warmed my heart.

The mysterious meditation hall

I then walked up the ever steeper stairwells to the fifth level, the most interesting and important level.

On arrival, after catching my breath, I walked into the aerated open hall carved into the rock, with the largest of the Buddha statues looming inside.

It was strange to see a meditation hall, that for all intents and purposes was outside, in such an open air environment. As a meditator myself, I imagined how serene and focused your practice would be here.

The absence of any monks gave it an enigmatic quality, a bookshelf full of Thai Buddhist books was held in the corner of the rock and I wondered what secrets were held within their pages.

Two, what looked like offices were in the furthest corner of the cavern. They for some reason intrigued me the most, the decor was like it was stuck from the 1970’s, the juxtaposition though of two business like offices felt somewhat strange this high up in the air.

I sat quietly for a while on the window ledge overlooking the forest. What is great about this part of Thailand is the absence of large groups of tourists, you can take everything in, quietly in contemplation.

As someone who struggles with screen time, I try as much as possible to be in the moment when travelling, taking it all in wherever or whatever I am doing.

The ghostly statues

I continued my journey along the fifth level, passing increasingly lifelike statues. One particular section houses a group of statued monks, depicting all the previous, now passed, inhabitants of the temple. They are a ghostly, mystical representation of those who once practised here. In some ways they feel as alive as ever, keeping watch of all those who pass by.

I wondered what else might waiting for me on the eventful route of the fifth level.

I turn a corner and there in front of me lied the next test of my endurance

Is it safe to walk along the creaky walkway?

I wish I could answer this for you.

Unfortunately I only made it a few nervous steps onto the walkway before freezing like a cat, arching its back and digging its claws into the floorboards, terrified.

I looked down below my feet.

All that was holding me up was a tired old single beam that jutted out from the rock.

One layer of wooden planks was the only difference between me staying alive or falling to my death in the forest below. No, I didn’t want to take the risk.

I saw no one here, no guides, no tourists, I had no point of reference. No one to be a guinea pig to strengthen my resolve.

And then in the far distance, a monk, dressed in bright orange robes, flanked by his two attendants, walked along the walkway from the far end.

He glided across the structure like it was the least scary thing in the world. He walked past me with a simple nod and a smile.

You don’t have to walk on the walkway to get to the top

Luckily there is another way to the top.

The journey though is arduous. At times I wondered whether I was going the right way as large parts of the path were overgrown, and the signs were unclear.

After a few hydration breaks the forest cleared and there in front of me was the edge of the top of the rock face.

The Isaan countryside unfurled, expanding across the horizon in what looked like for infinity.

I took a moment again to take it all in, not to be one of those people who immediately leaves after making it to the end.

It felt like somewhere I shouldn’t have been, a part of the rock that was only for birds and trees, such was its anonymity.

I took one last look at the view and made my way back on the long journey to the bottom and to some well deserved local Thai cuisine.

How to get there

It was not easy getting to the mountain temple from Nong Khai.

The route though led me to see a part of the Thai countryside that I would otherwise would have missed.

Coupled with the open air of the Songkhaew, I felt like I was truly connected in a way I wouldn’t have in hire car.

The temples location was chosen, exactly for its remoteness from built up areas.

Public transport to the temple is lengthy but affordable. From Nong Khai you can catch a bus to Bueng Khan, a town 25km from Wat Phu Tok. The bus is rugged inside but very cheap for a two hour journey.

When I arrived at the bus station there were a number of Songkhaews (large tuktuks) waiting to take arrivals. The driver that took me to the temple, also waited in the car park for me to finish, sleeping in his car until I got back.

There are plenty of local eateries near the temple if you need to eat before or after.